Dean's Quarter

I believe one of the main goals in life is to never get stuck in "The Waiting Place". If you succeed, you'll win 1000 mega points!

Sunday, January 04, 2004

Backwaters (Cochin, India)

Its much better down here

I'm in the state of Kerala right now and unfortunatley I'm leaving today as well. I only got to spend a few nights down here because I have to be back in Calcutta in 9 days.

Kerala is a communist gov't state and because of it the people are a little more well to do, the literacy rate is 90% and the place just seems more civilized and kinder. I couldn't believe when I first got here that there were like actually nice shopping stores, well westernized ones. There's even a few grocery/supermarkets. Now that's a treat, even though I don't need to buy food from them, its just a change to see it.

Not to mention, this place is beautiful. Much like Goa, there's palm trees everywhere and lots of greenery everywhere. The trees are enormous with these huge complex branches that span out like 20-25 metres. I'm still by the sea but there's not really any beaches here. But that's fine with me. Instead they're famous for these backwater tours that last hours.

Michael row your boat ashore

Nils and I went on a 8hr backwater tour. Its called backwaters because something like its from the tide of the sea that goes into the streams behind the coastline. Anyway, it was really relaxing and gorgeous to see. The first half of the day was spent in this little 8 man boat with 1 man standing on each end of the boat with this huge bamboo stick to push us along. The water's only like 2 metres deep. We went through these tiny canals that are beside these villages. All the families are really excited to see the tourists come around on the boats and all say hello and smile at us. I'm sure they do this every single day though, but they don't seem to tire of it. A long the way we were also pointed out various things growing on trees and in the water. Such as black pepper, coco, these things that make beer, pineapples, jackfruits, and lots of coconuts. We actually stopped off a couple times to see a coconut 'factory' and a rope making 'factory'. We each got our coconut cracked open and given a straw to drink the juice and then they split it in half so we could eat the actual coconut. When I say factory, don't think of like big machines and hundreds of people. Its more like 5-10 people working their asses off each and every day of their lives, much like every other Indian in the country.

After a traditional Indian lunch served on Banana leaves we then headed out onto a larger houseboat with comfortable wicker chairs. There was now about 20 of us on the boat and we all kinda mingled with each other. There were these 4 Italianos whom I loved to listen speak in their native tongue. Unfortunately they don't speak english though. Anyway, for the next couple hours we just sat and relaxed on this boat and watched the beautiful scenery in the more open waters, still very shallow though. Imagine it like a lake almost but branches out into different areas. All along the banks are just big, green and yellow palm trees. Wow.

I'm 9 years old again!

Yesterday Nils and I rented bicycles and just went riding through the city. It was so nice to just meander along the streets, many of them residential areas. I felt like a kid just out for the day, riding with my friends in my neighborhood. This was much more low-key than when Nils, Alex, Sanne and I rented scooters in Goa. That was exciting and adventurous, although we didn't make it to our destined Old Goa and Nils crashed into a tree after making a big smile at us and waving! That was funny!

We were able to see the sights of Cochin all mostly related to the Dutch, Portugese and the Jews that all once inhabited here. We went to the oldest church in India which is now a Protestant one, a Jewish Synagogue and a large and immaculate Catholic Basilica where I was able to attend half the mass.

A taste of Kerala

We also bought some spices in this one shop. I got Tea Masala spice and black tea. When I actually have a facility where I can boil my own water I'm going to make some nice chai tea and remind myself of India. Hopefully I can do this in Australia.

Last night we attended two cultural shows. One was a Kathakali show. Basically its like a play but with no words. Only a live musical soundtrack and facial/hand expressions. There's tonnes of make up involved and people have to study the art for 6 years before they can perform. Its a really big thing here. Afterwards we watched a dance, it was okay, but each dance (there was about 8 of them) were all very similiar and each song is like 7 or 8 minutes. I saw this one lady nodding off... it was funny.

Anyway, I'm now off to Ernaukulim, the city that's just across the waters. That's where I saw all the stores, I'm going to try and do some shopping and then I've got to take a 12 hr bus ride to my next city. I've only got 9 days left in India, I've got to make them count. 38 of those hours are going to be on a train to Calcutta... yikes! If there's one thing I've learned in this country, its patience.

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